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Standing the test of time

Heirloom blueberry recipes thrive in old books - and new

Posted: June 18, 2013 - 1:53pm  |  Updated: June 19, 2013 - 10:03am

I hadn’t seen Hilton Head Islander Ede Olson for a long time before we recently re-connected at a 90th birthday celebration for our mutual friend, Ellie Bollin, also of Hilton Head Island. During the course of our conversation, Ede began to tell me of her years-long quest to locate her mother, Frances A. Cunningham Stepp’s, recipe for blueberry pudding, which she served by the spoonful to her four children. Estimating the dates when I thought Ede’s mother might have been making the pudding for her family (later confirmed to be sometime in the mid-1940’s), I began searching through my vintage cookbook collection, and lo and behold, there it was – a recipe for Steamed Blueberry Pudding, much as Ede described, in a 1934 edition of the “The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book,” by Fannie Merritt Farmer. The recipe also appeared in my almost-falling-apart 1923 edition. So, just in time for blueberry season, Ede and members of her family, including nephew Scott Stepp, of Douglassville, Pa., finally had Mrs. Stepp’s long-lost recipe for blueberry pudding. I was thrilled for Ede and for myself, as I found another use for my Wear-Ever two-piece (#110) mold. Like Ede, Callie’s Charleston Biscuit founder Carrie Morey also reveres her mother Callie White’s recipes – especially for her biscuits. Callie’s biscuits, in fact, is what fed Carrie’s desire to found Callie’s Charleston Biscuits, in 2005, and make her mother’s biscuits “accessible across the country.” For those of you who have eagerly awaited the release of Morey’s new cookbook, “Callie’s Biscuits & Southern Traditions: Heirloom Recipes from Our Family Kitchen,” you’ll be happy to know the book is due for release this October. Frequent recipe contributor Caroline Kennedy, of Bluffton, recently won a Callie’s Charleston Biscuits recipe contest for her Lime-Blueberry Tiramisu. (Caroline’s recipe follows.) Having compiled and edited a cookbook honoring her own mother, “Recipes from a Mother’s Heart: In loving of Iris Iona Sullivan Bain, Mother, Friend and Amazing Cook,” Caroline, too, treasures recipes that come from mom. For further information about Callie’s Charleston Biscuits, including purchase information for their line of products and how to pre-order a copy of Carrie’s cookbook, visit the company’s website at www.calliesbiscuits.com.

 

Sue Ade is a syndicated food writer with broad experience and interest in the culinary arts. She has worked and resided in the Lowcountry of South Carolina since 1985 and may be reached at kitchenade@yahoo.com.

 

Steamed Blueberry Pudding

Recipe source: "The Boston Cooking-School Cookbook," by Fannie Merritt Farmer (1857-1915), circa 1923, Little, Brown, and Company, publishers. This recipe was also found on the Bartleby Great Books on-line website at www.bartleby.com in an edition of the cookbook printed 1918.

2 cups flour

2 tablespoons butter

4 teaspoons baking powder

1 cup milk

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup blueberries (rolled in flour for coating)

Creamy Sauce for serving (recipe follows)

 

Mix and sift dry ingredients and work in butter. Add one cup each of milk and blueberries rolled in flour; turn into buttered mold and steam one and one-half hours. Serve with Creamy Sauce. Kitchen Ade note: Steamed Blueberry Pudding is a batter-based dessert, which may be simply spooned from the baking mold, or unmolded and served in slices like cake. This recipe benefitted with the addition of about 6 tablespoons of granulated sugar sifted in with the dry ingredients. To steam the pudding, I placed the pudding mixture in a 6-cup mold on a rack inside a pot of simmering water. The water did not quite reach the rack, and I replenished the water, as needed, with boiling water from my tea kettle. Depending on size of portion, this recipe will make about 8 servings.

¼ cup butter

2 tablespoons warm milk

¾ cup powdered sugar

2 tablespoons wine*

1 teaspoon vanilla

 

*Kitchen Ade note: Use sherry or Madeira wine. If you do not wish to use wine, substitute with additional milk.

 

Cream the butter, add sugar gradually and milk, wine and vanilla drop by drop. If liquids are added too fast the sauce will have a curdled appearance.

Lime-Blueberry Tiramisu

Recipe by Caroline Kennedy, Bluffton, for Callie's Biscuits of Charleston, (www.calliesbiscuits.com)

Caroline Kennedy's Lime-Blueberry Tiramisu was a recent winner in a Callie's Biscuits of Charleston recipe contest. As a prize, Caroline won a picnic basket from Callie's filled with quality products such as Callie's Pimento Cheese, Shortbread Biscuits, Country Ham Biscuits and Fat and Juicy Bloody Mary Mix

2 limes, grated and juiced*

3 cups fresh blueberries, rinsed & drained, divided

¾ cup granulated sugar, divided

4 tablespoons cold water, divided

1 (17.6-ounce) carton nonfat Greek yogurt

1 dozen Callie’s Shortbread Biscuits, split

Garnish: ¾ cup fresh blueberries

 

*You will need 1½ teaspoons grated lime zest and ¼ cup juice, divided.

 

 

In a medium saucepan, combine 1½ cups blueberries, ¼ cup sugar and 1 tablespoon cold water. Heat over medium heat 5 minutes or until blueberries soften and juices thicken, stirring occasionally. Pour mixture into a medium bowl and add 1½ cups blueberries; reserve. In a microwave-safe measuring cup, combine ¼ cup sugar and remaining 3 tablespoons cold water. Cook in microwave on HIGH 1 minute. Stir in 3 tablespoons lime juice and 1 teaspoon lime zest; reserve. In a medium bowl, stir together yogurt and remaining ¼-cup sugar, 1 tablespoon lime juice and ½ teaspoon lime zest. In an 8-inch glass baking dish, cover bottom with split Callie’s Shortbread Biscuits. Brush the biscuits with half the syrup. Spoon blueberry mixture over biscuits. Arrange remaining shortbread biscuit halves over blueberries. Brush biscuits with remaining syrup. Spread yogurt mixture over the top. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight or at least 8 hours. To serve: top tiramisu with remaining ¾ cup blueberries. Note: Any biscuits left? Spread with raspberry jam and fix yourself a cup of tea and enjoy.

Yield: 8 servings.

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